Leather guide

A Guide to the Leathers I Use

Good leather is at the heart of everything I make.

Over the years, I've worked with a range of leathers from tanneries around the world, each with its own character, texture and way of ageing.

Some have a smooth, refined finish, while others are more rustic and develop a noticeable patina with use.

This guide covers some of the leathers I regularly work with, including Italian vegetable-tanned leather and Shell Cordovan from tanneries such as Horween and Rocado.

Whether you're choosing leather for a custom wallet or simply curious about the materials, I hope it helps you find something you like.

Choosing the Right Leather

There's no single leather that's best for everyone.

If you enjoy seeing your wallet change and develop character over time, vegetable-tanned leathers such as Pueblo are worth exploring.

If you prefer a smooth, dense leather with a distinctive finish, Shell Cordovan might be more your style.

If you're unsure, get in touch. I'm always happy to talk leather.

Vegetable tanned leathers I use

  • Buttero

    Type: Vegetable tanned leather

    Tannery: Conceria Walpier Tannery

    Origin: Italy

    Grain: Full

    Feel: A nice balance between supple and firm

    Character: Smooth finish, slower to patina

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    Browse Buttero options

  • Pueblo

    Type: Vegetable tanned leather

    Tannery: Badalassi Carlo Tannery

    Origin: Italy

    Grain: Full

    Feel: Supple with a small amount of firmness

    Character: Unique rustic look that patinas as it ages

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    Browse Pueblo options

Shell Cordovan leathers we use

  • Horween Shell Cordovan

    Type: Vegetable tanned leather

    Tannery: Horween

    Origin: USA

    Grain: Full

    Feel: Rich and glossy

    Character: Aniline finish

    -

    Browse Horween options

  • Leder Ogawa

    Type: Vegetable tanner leather

    Tannery: Leder Ogawa

    Origin: Japan

    Grain: Full

    Feel: Rich and glossy

    Character: Beautiful luster and transparency like crystal
    glass

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    Browse Leder Ogawa options

  • Rocado

    Type: Vegetable tanned leather

    Tannery: Rocado Tannery

    Origin: Italy

    Grain: Full

    Feel: Rich and glossy

    Character: Naturally water resistant, bright luster, non-creasing grain character and ability to develop and keep these
    characteristics over time.

    -

    Browse Rocado options

Leather care

  • Smith's All Natural - leather balm


    1. Ensure that leather goods are clean and dry.
    2. Test small amount on a hidden patch of leather to preview results.
    3. Start with a small amount. A little goes a long way.
    4. Best applied by hand and massaged into leather, but a clean rag works also.
    5. Leather will absorb the balm immediately Some leathers may darken slightly but return to their natural shade within 24 hours.
    6. Repeat as necessary to protect, restore, and extend life of leather goods.
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